Evolv Oracle Climbing Shoe

We’ve read the reviews across the web for the Evolv Oracle Climbing Shoe and summarize the results below:

Universal Ranking

PeakScore: 90 (out of 100)
User Rating: 4.5 stars 
Expert Rating: 4.4 stars

Number of Ratings Reviewed: 27

Pros & Cons

Reasons to buy:

User Reviews

  • Comfortable and reliable for sport routes.
  • The toe box provides comfort during the break-in period.
  • Lacing system really secures your foot into place, and keeps the heel from sliding during use.
  • The stiffer sole aids in power transfer and climbing abilities in small holds and edges.
  • Able to use on various types of routes, like sport, bouldering, and technical vertical walls.
  • Performs well on pockets and steep rock.

Expert Reviews

  • Designed with sport routes and bouldering in mind.
  • The downturned shape still allows you to edge proficiently, in addition to performing well on steep climbs and vertical sections.
  • The speed-lacing system is quick to use and secures your foot.
  • Minimal break-in time due to having softer upper-material.
  • The raised area of the sole retains the downturn over time, creating an aggressive shape.
  • The lacing system and the heel rand help in making this shoe proficient at heel-hooking.
  • Performs well on both indoor and outdoor routes.
  • Works very well on limestone and granite.
  • The relaxed fit combined with the heel precision make this a great choice for longer sport routes or technical bouldering routes.

Reasons NOT to buy:

User Reviews

  • Some reports of wearing out after only a few months of use, with the laces wearing and the heel losing security.
  • The sizing runs small, so you may have to try on or size-up when buying.

Expert Reviews

  • The inserts at the top of the laces are plastic, so might not be the most durable in the long term.
  • Doesn’t have Velcro for even quicker lacing.
  • Not the best for toe-hooking due to the lack of rubber, despite having more rubber than some traditional lacing shoes.

Summary:

The Evolv Oracle Climbing Shoe is a downturned, versatile, and secure option that can be efficiently used on various types of routes like bouldering, sport, vertical walls, and heel-hooking sections. The limited rubber makes this not the best choice for toe-hooking specific routes, but the stiffer sole, aggressive shape, and snug lacing system all provide a stable, powerful, and reliable shoe, that can be used for multiple types of climbing.

Multimedia:

Note: User and expert rankings were reviewed across the web. Some expert reviews include these: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9.