We’ve read the reviews across the web for the La Sportiva Otaki Climbing Shoe and summarize the results below:
Universal Ranking
PeakScore: 88 (out of 100)
User Rating: 4.6 stars
Expert Rating: 4 stars
Number of Ratings Reviewed: 104
Pros & Cons
Reasons to buy:
User Reviews
- More durable and better at edging than other La Sportiva models.
- Smears and edges proficiently.
- Very comfortable and versatile.
- Wide enough to provide adequate comfort, but still aggressive enough for the more technical climbs.
- Great for vertical/slightly overhanging edging problems.
- Proficient at heel-hooking.
- Minimal break-in time.
Expert Reviews
- Two Velcro straps help to adjust the heel and middle of the shoe.
- Able to get on and off quickly.
- The strip increases heel rigidity and decreases the likelihood of rolling off a heel hook due to the leather folding.
- Foot can sit naturally in the shoe and be comfortable.
- Features a P3 technology that enables downturned performance.
- Great for technical single pitches with edging.
- The S-Heel allows for proficient heel hooking ability and ideal fit.
Reasons NOT to buy:
User Reviews
- Toe hooking is not the best.
- Not ideal for jamming in cracks.
- More suited for a low-volume foot and is less asymmetric, which may not fit some foot shapes.
- Not the best for steep caves.
- Despite a short break-in time, some reports of being uncomfortable for the first few wears.
Expert Reviews
- Not as good for beginners or those with poor footwork.
- Not the most comfortable in cracks.
- Less comfortable for multi-pitch routes than the Kataki.
Summary:
The La Sportiva Otaki Climbing Shoe is a versatile and middle-of-the-road design, that is proficient for edging, smearing, and heel-hooking. Those looking for a super aggressive and toe-hooking choice should look elsewhere, but this shoe works well on all other routes and pitches.