We’ve read the reviews across the web for the Scarpa Instinct S Climbing Shoe – Vibram XS Grip2 and summarize the results below:
Universal Ranking
PeakScore: 85 (out of 100)
User Rating: 4.2 stars
Expert Rating: 4.5 stars
Number of Ratings Reviewed: 92
Pros & Cons
Reasons to buy:
User Reviews
- Very sensitive and precise toe.
- Great for bouldering.
- Great edging power.
- The rubber breaks in quickly for a strong grip.
- Easy to take off and put on.
- A great fit for people with wider feet.
- Excels at overhanging routes, except for its weak spot of heel hooks.
Expert Reviews
- Very versatile.
- Great at toe-hooking, jamming, and scumming.
- Very sensitive rubber.
- Top performer on vertical-to-overhanging terrain.
- Inexpensive for the performance they offer.
Reasons NOT to buy:
User Reviews
- The slipper design makes heel hooking less secure than laced shoes.
- Stretch a lot during the break-in period.
- Not extremely durable, but do hold up well to re-soling.
Expert Reviews
- The rubber losses its stick in less than a year of heavy use.
- Need a skin-tight fit to get their best performance.
- As the shoe breaks in, the midsole softens up considerably and the edging power decreases.
Summary:
The Scarpa Instinct S Climbing Shoe with Vibram XS Grip2 rubber is a comfortable and exceedingly sensitive shoe that excels on steep to overhanging terrain. The Instinct S offers a precise toe and great edging capabilities, but the slipper style does not offer great stability for heel-hooks, and the durability is questionable for the sticky rubber. The Instinct S requires some breaking in to achieve the best fit and stick, but it is an all-around favorite once it becomes well-adjusted.
Multimedia:
Note: User and expert rankings were reviewed across the web. Some expert reviews include these: 1, 2.