La Sportiva Miura VS Vibram XS Edge Climbing Shoe

We’ve read the reviews across the web for the La Sportiva Miura VS Vibram XS Edge Climbing Shoe and summarize the results below:

Universal Ranking

PeakScore: 89 (out of 100)
User Rating: 4.6 stars 
Expert Rating: 4.1 stars

Number of Ratings Reviewed: 151

Pros & Cons

Reasons to buy:

User Reviews

  • Stiff and hugs foot for a tight fit.
  • Asymmetry is pronounced and retains downturned-shape even after prolonged wear.
  • Very good at tiny edges.
  • Ideal for getting into tiny pockets.
  • Velcro straps for ease.
  • Efficient at slabs and heel holds.
  • Stands up well on overhang problems.
  • Big toe zone allows for easy placement of feet in pockets.
  • Aggressive design allows for efficiency on steep overhanging rock.

Expert Reviews

  • High-performance and works well as an all-around rock shoe.
  • P3 platform retains the shoe’s shape over time.
  • Rubber is more durable than sticky, which allows for efficiency in edging.
  • Rubber patch on the shoe’s heel allows for heel protection and stickiness capability to the rock while heel-hooking.
  • Glove-like fit provides adequate sensitive feedback.
  • Edges well on all sides of the shoe.
  • Edging ability allows the climber to turn hips into the wall and increase reach.

Reasons NOT to buy:

User Reviews

  • Issues with the rubber at the end of the velcro coming off.
  • Very long break-in period.
  • Potential hot-spots in the toe area for certain feet.
  • Stiffness could create a lack of feedback for some climbers.
  • Friction where rubber toe cap ends.

Expert Reviews

  • The heel can sometimes slip out when heel-hooking.
  • When toe-hooking, the small toe-box means the leather is the material in contact with the rock instead of the rubber.
  • The original Miura is better solely for crack-climbing.
  • Shoe stretches quite a bit.
  • Might not be as comfortable for prolonged crack-climbing, smearing, or all-day routes as other shoes.
  • Lacks some flexibility and sensitivity climbers may need for smearing.
  • Triple-buckle system gets in the way of all-day crack-climbing.

Summary:

The La Sportiva Miura VS Vibram XS Edge Climbing Shoe is an aggressive shoe that is ideal for various types of climbs due to the edging ability, heel-hooking, stiffness, downturned shape, and sufficient rubber on the heels. The lack of rubber in the toe-box and extreme stiffness may deter crack-climbing specialists, but for a multi-purpose and aggressive-design shoe, this is an outstanding option.

Multimedia:

Note: User and expert rankings were reviewed across the web, including here: 1, 2, 3, 4.