We’ve read the reviews across the web for the La Sportiva Miura VS Vibram XS Edge Climbing Shoe and summarize the results below:
PeakScore: 89 (out of 100)
User Rating: 4.6 stars
Expert Rating: 4.1 stars
Number of Ratings Reviewed: 151
Pros & Cons
Reasons to buy:
- Stiff and hugs foot for a tight fit.
- Asymmetry is pronounced and retains downturned-shape even after prolonged wear.
- Very good at tiny edges.
- Ideal for getting into tiny pockets.
- Velcro straps for ease.
- Efficient at slabs and heel holds.
- Stands up well on overhang problems.
- Big toe zone allows for easy placement of feet in pockets.
- Aggressive design allows for efficiency on steep overhanging rock.
- High-performance and works well as an all-around rock shoe.
- P3 platform retains the shoe’s shape over time.
- Rubber is more durable than sticky, which allows for efficiency in edging.
- Rubber patch on the shoe’s heel allows for heel protection and stickiness capability to the rock while heel-hooking.
- Glove-like fit provides adequate sensitive feedback.
- Edges well on all sides of the shoe.
- Edging ability allows the climber to turn hips into the wall and increase reach.
Reasons NOT to buy:
- Issues with the rubber at the end of the velcro coming off.
- Very long break-in period.
- Potential hot-spots in the toe area for certain feet.
- Stiffness could create a lack of feedback for some climbers.
- Friction where rubber toe cap ends.
- The heel can sometimes slip out when heel-hooking.
- When toe-hooking, the small toe-box means the leather is the material in contact with the rock instead of the rubber.
- The original Miura is better solely for crack-climbing.
- Shoe stretches quite a bit.
- Might not be as comfortable for prolonged crack-climbing, smearing, or all-day routes as other shoes.
- Lacks some flexibility and sensitivity climbers may need for smearing.
- Triple-buckle system gets in the way of all-day crack-climbing.
The La Sportiva Miura VS Vibram XS Edge Climbing Shoe is an aggressive shoe that is ideal for various types of climbs due to the edging ability, heel-hooking, stiffness, downturned shape, and sufficient rubber on the heels. The lack of rubber in the toe-box and extreme stiffness may deter crack-climbing specialists, but for a multi-purpose and aggressive-design shoe, this is an outstanding option.