We’ve read the reviews across the web for the Scarpa Instinct Climbing Shoe -XS Edge and summarize the results below:
PeakScore: 93 (out of 100)
User Rating: 4.7 stars
Expert Rating: 4.7 stars
Number of Ratings Reviewed: 34
Pros & Cons
Reasons to buy:
- Does very well on edging and heel hooks.
- Offers excellent grip on even small holds.
- Particularly good on sport climbs and overhangs.
- Good fit for wide feet.
- A snug heel that does heel-hooks well.
- Laces offer a good range of adjustability.
- Offers a good blend of stiffness and sensitivity with firm rubber but a more flexible insole.
- Very sensitive toe.
- Smears quite well, but requires some break-in time for best performance.
- Has a light feel.
Reasons NOT to buy:
- Require some time to break in, but conform very well to the foot once broken in.
- Some stitching on the top of the foot that decreases the overall comfort.
- Not necessarily the best option for new climbers.
- The leather has a tendency to bleed color onto feet during the break-in period.
- Has a considerable break-in time.
- Fit may be too aggressive for longer pitches or slabs.
The Scarpa Instinct Climbing Shoe -XS Edge is a shoe that is well-loved for its high performance on edging and heel hooking, making it a good fit for sport climbs, bouldering, and overhangs. Although it requires a longer-than-normal break-in period, many users find this worth it for the snug heel fit, sensitive toe, and the good balance of stiffness and flexibility in the sole. While this shoe is not ideal for beginning climbers, more experienced climbers looking for a grippy and snug-fitting shoe are likely to find a lot of happiness in the Instinct.
Note: User and expert rankings were reviewed across the web. Some expert reviews include these: 1, 2, 3.