La Sportiva TC Pro Vibram XS Edge Climbing Shoe

We’ve read the reviews across the web for the La Sportiva TC Pro Vibram XS Edge Climbing Shoe and summarize the results below:

Universal Ranking

PeakScore: 90 (out of 100)
User Rating: 4.7 stars 
Expert Rating: 3.9 stars

Number of Ratings Reviewed: 204

Pros & Cons

Reasons to buy:

User Reviews

  • Stiff, but comfortable.
  • Provides adequate ankle support and protection.
  • Ample amount of rubber for traction and durability.
  • Efficient to use on edges and crack climbing.
  • The outer material holds firmness and rigidity.
  • Tie-laces allow for cinching and adjustment of shoe tightness.
  • Padded tongue for extra comfort.
  • Proven to be comfortable on long traditional climbs.
  • Can stand on narrow edges without the shoe deforming.

Expert Reviews

  • Provides very good support and has proven to be comfortable.
  • Wide strip of rubber at the heel is useful for heel hooks.
  • Ideal for crack climbing due to flat toe box and stiffness allows you to wedge your feet into jams.
  • XS Edge rubber provides durability.
  • A huge benefit is the ability to size comfortably without sacrificing performance.
  • Virtually flat toe box fits perfetly in cracks.
  • Sole offers lots of support to help fight off fatigue.
  • Sole does not ‘roll’ or begin to deform under stress.
  • Large amount of rand rubber in the toe box creates friction which helps with smearing.
  • Useful in heel-toe cams due to stiffness of the sole.

Reasons NOT to buy:

User Reviews

  • Not as efficient as downturned shoes on overhangs and toehangs.
  • Larger toe profile makes it less efficient for small cracks and toe jams.
  • Stiffness of the shoe requires longer to break in, but is comfortable once you are used to it.
  • Tongue is made of a mesh that tends to curl at the sides, so you have to move the tongue to the side of the shoe before placing your foot inside.

Expert Reviews

  • Wider toe box doesn’t allow for narrow pockets.
  • Heel isn’t the narrowest, which doesn’t allow for extreme precision.
  • Not suitable for toe hangs on overhang climbs.
  • Not an especially soft fit allowing for sensitive feedback.
  • Not an ideal choice for smearing due to stiffness.
  • People with wider feet may not find the fit comfortable.
  • Some discrepancies in which size to choose for comfort, but is recommended to choose one European size down from street wear shoes.
  • Limited sport/bouldering use.
  • The steeper the climb, the less ability the shoe has to perform.
  • Wide toe box makes this shoe not ideal for straight-in splitter foot jamming.

Summary:

The La Sportiva TC Pro Vibram XS Edge Climbing Shoe is an ideal choice for edging and crack climbing due to its stiffness, ankle protection, durability, rubber toe box, and cinching ability. If you’re a climber looking for sport climbing or overhang routes, this shoe is not for you. If you’re looking for a shoe that will perform and withstand long, traditional routes, this is your top choice.

Multimedia:

Note: User and expert rankings were reviewed across the web, including here: 1, 2, 3.