Scarpa Instinct VS Climbing Shoe – Vibram XS Edge

User Reviews

• Able to fit wider feet comfortably.
• Contours to the shape of the foot without needing to constantly adjust your laces.
• The moderate downturn of the shoe makes it proficient for edging.
• Can be comfortable when worn for multiple hours.
• The toe box isn’t too narrow, so doesn’t jam your toes on thin edges.
• The heel is solid and stiff, promoting support, with the outside being narrower and making the shoe ideal for heel-hook holds.
• The toe is stiff, which provides greater power for foot holds.
• The Vibram XS Grip 2 is placed on the heel, creating traction and stick for toe and heel-hooks.
• No exposed leather on the shoe means stretching won’t happen, and you can purchase true-to-size.
• The rubber still allows your foot to get a feel of the surface underneath.
• An ideal shoe for overhanging holds.
• You have the ability to use your toes in multiple angles and positions, adding to the functionality of the shoe.
• The separate front and rear parts of the shoe have a joint between them, making the on-and-off process easier.

Expert Reviews

• The shoe will lose very little of the downturn, even after multiple smears.
• The Velcro closure ensures a snug fit.
• Once you slip your foot into the shoe and hear the ‘pop’ sound, there is no more air in the shoe and it remains very snug.
• The bi-tension rand allows the shoe to edge proficiently without being too tight on the foot.
• Feels comfortable and stable in hand/wide-hand cracks.
• Great for standing on the edges of vertical pockets.
• The stiffening up towards the toe increases responsiveness, allowing for a greater feel of the terrain and power output.
• Top choice for steep bouldering and sport climbing.
• Instinct VS is the ideal shoe for limestone sport climbing.
• The light feel allows you to navigate steep boulders and tight edges.
• The extra rubber on the top provides extra grip on small footholds.
• The downturned-make and rigidity make this an ideal all-around shoe.

User Reviews

• Does not hold up as well during prolonged outdoor climbing.
• The shoes can feel a bit stiff out of the box.
• Despite the sole being extremely durable, there have been some reports of the toe cap splitting after a few months of use.
• Some users may need to size-up for a more comfortable fit if you are not used to tight climbing shoes.

Expert Reviews

• Longer break-in period compared to the competition.
• This shoe is not recommended for those with a history of plantar fascia injuries.
• Aggressive shoes with a stiffer make will be much more suited to crack climbing than the Instinct VS.
• The shoe has too much volume in the toe area to fit into tight hand cracks, finger cracks, and pockets.
• The stiffness reduces the proficiency to smear in crackless-corners.
• Not sensitive enough for feedback on slabs.
• Would not recommend these shoes for multi-pitch routes due to the comfort, specifications, and durability.
• They resole well, but the upper portion can develop a hole over the toe if you size your shoe too tightly.