We’ve read the reviews across the web for the Scarpa Instinct VS Climbing Shoe – Vibram XS Edge and summarize the results below:
PeakScore: 90 (out of 100)
User Rating: 4.7 stars
Expert Rating: 4.1 stars
Number of Ratings Reviewed: 214
Pros & Cons
Reasons to buy:
- Able to fit wider feet comfortably.
- Contours to the shape of the foot without needing to constantly adjust your laces.
- The moderate downturn of the shoe makes it proficient for edging.
- Can be comfortable when worn for multiple hours.
- The toe box isn’t too narrow, so doesn’t jam your toes on thin edges.
- The heel is solid and stiff, promoting support, with the outside being narrower and making the shoe ideal for heel-hook holds.
- The toe is stiff, which provides greater power for foot holds.
- The Vibram XS Grip 2 is placed on the heel, creating traction and stick for toe and heel-hooks.
- No exposed leather on the shoe means stretching won’t happen, and you can purchase true-to-size.
- The rubber still allows your foot to get a feel of the surface underneath.
- An ideal shoe for overhanging holds.
- You have the ability to use your toes in multiple angles and positions, adding to the functionality of the shoe.
- The separate front and rear parts of the shoe have a joint between them, making the on-and-off process easier.
- The shoe will lose very little of the downturn, even after multiple smears.
- The Velcro closure ensures a snug fit.
- Once you slip your foot into the shoe and hear the ‘pop’ sound, there is no more air in the shoe and it remains very snug.
- The bi-tension rand allows the shoe to edge proficiently without being too tight on the foot.
- Feels comfortable and stable in hand/wide-hand cracks.
- Great for standing on the edges of vertical pockets.
- The stiffening up towards the toe increases responsiveness, allowing for a greater feel of the terrain and power output.
- Top choice for steep bouldering and sport climbing.
- Instinct VS is the ideal shoe for limestone sport climbing.
- The light feel allows you to navigate steep boulders and tight edges.
- The extra rubber on the top provides extra grip on small footholds.
- The downturned-make and rigidity make this an ideal all-around shoe.
Reasons NOT to buy:
- Does not hold up as well during prolonged outdoor climbing.
- The shoes can feel a bit stiff out of the box.
- Despite the sole being extremely durable, there have been some reports of the toe cap splitting after a few months of use.
- Some users may need to size-up for a more comfortable fit if you are not used to tight climbing shoes.
- Longer break-in period compared to the competition.
- This shoe is not recommended for those with a history of plantar fascia injuries.
- Aggressive shoes with a stiffer make will be much more suited to crack climbing than the Instinct VS.
- The shoe has too much volume in the toe area to fit into tight hand cracks, finger cracks, and pockets.
- The stiffness reduces the proficiency to smear in crackless-corners.
- Not sensitive enough for feedback on slabs.
- Would not recommend these shoes for multi-pitch routes due to the comfort, specifications, and durability.
- They resole well, but the upper portion can develop a hole over the toe if you size your shoe too tightly.
The Scarpa Instinct VS Climbing Shoe – Vibram XS Edge is designed for climbers who spend most of their time working in edges and want a durable, snug, and comfortable shoe. The moderate-downturn makes these shoes great for those into sport climbing, bouldering, and edging.
Note: User and expert rankings were reviewed across the web, including here: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8.