La Sportiva Otaki Climbing Shoe

We’ve read the reviews across the web for the La Sportiva Otaki Climbing Shoe and summarize the results below:

Universal Ranking

PeakScore: 88 (out of 100)
User Rating: 4.6 stars 
Expert Rating: 4 stars

Number of Ratings Reviewed: 104

Pros & Cons

Reasons to buy:

User Reviews

  • More durable and better at edging than other La Sportiva models.
  • Smears and edges proficiently.
  • Very comfortable and versatile.
  • Wide enough to provide adequate comfort, but still aggressive enough for the more technical climbs.
  • Great for vertical/slightly overhanging edging problems.
  • Proficient at heel-hooking.
  • Minimal break-in time.

Expert Reviews

  • Two Velcro straps help to adjust the heel and middle of the shoe.
  • Able to get on and off quickly.
  • The strip increases heel rigidity and decreases the likelihood of rolling off a heel hook due to the leather folding.
  • Foot can sit naturally in the shoe and be comfortable.
  • Features a P3 technology that enables downturned performance.
  • Great for technical single pitches with edging.
  • The S-Heel allows for proficient heel hooking ability and ideal fit.

Reasons NOT to buy:

User Reviews

  • Toe hooking is not the best.
  • Not ideal for jamming in cracks.
  • More suited for a low-volume foot and is less asymmetric, which may not fit some foot shapes.
  • Not the best for steep caves.
  • Despite a short break-in time, some reports of being uncomfortable for the first few wears.

Expert Reviews

  • Not as good for beginners or those with poor footwork.
  • Not the most comfortable in cracks.
  • Less comfortable for multi-pitch routes than the Kataki.

Summary:

The La Sportiva Otaki Climbing Shoe is a versatile and middle-of-the-road design, that is proficient for edging, smearing, and heel-hooking. Those looking for a super aggressive and toe-hooking choice should look elsewhere, but this shoe works well on all other routes and pitches.

Multimedia:

Note: User and expert rankings were reviewed across the web, including here: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6.